Mozambique. Everything you need to Know

For conservation and income, we must be upmarket.' High-end investment is certainly pouring in. Rani Resorts will open two luxurious Quirimba island retreats this year alongside its two existing Mozambican properties. In the north, the Cabo Delgado Biodiversity and Tourism Project plans several game and island eco-lodges, with community involvement, while Britain's Twinspot Travel is Niassa Reserve's first operator.

Some South African lodges hope to build sister properties near Vilanculos to exploit new air links with Kruger. All will appeal to exclusive, tailor-made operators such as Steppes Africa, whose clients have long followed safaris in neighbouring countries with a beach-stay in the Bazaruto Archipelago. But logistics remain a challenge.

Albee Yeend, Steppes' PR Marketing Director, says that despite the north's new high-class properties, expensive irregular flights to the area – often awkwardly routed via Maputo or Johannesburg – mean it's easier to send clients who've been on safari in Southern Africa to Bazaruto.

The north is more easily accessed from Dar es Salaam. Logistics affect the other end of the market too. Despite official tourism policy, small investors are opening charming guest houses such as Mozaika in Maputo or Ibo Island's Bella Vista, attracting companies like Explore which offer small group trips.

Although the company currently covers only Maputo and Bazaruto, as the final part of an itinerary including a Kruger safari and an overland journey through Swaziland, African Product Manager Simon Grove is excited by Mozambique's north and plans a separate itinerary based on the region's colonial past and indigenous culture next year. But like Steppes, Explore won't link north and south.

'Logistically and thematically, it makes sense to keep them separate,' says Simon. 'For our market, the south is beaches and watersports, the north culture and adventure. Our northern groups will probably travel by truck from Tanzania. The roads are too bad and distances too far to link north and south overland.'

In its favour, both Simon and Albee agree the country has serious kudos. 'It's the ultimate 'I've just been to' dinner party destination,' says Albee, while Simon acknowledges that some visitors 'go for the cool-factor, because it's off the beaten track.' By the time this fades, the country's tourism infrastructure should be well enough established to attract visitors in its own right.

'People love the private island idea which Mozambique is increasingly offering,' says Albee. 'The north will open up with time.' Mozambique's ability to resist mass-market foreign investment and stick to sustainable development will be crucial to its long-term success.

Despite government indifference, Africa's lucrative backpacker and adventure market could also be key: backpackers are usually responsible travellers who spend money directly with the people and often return as high earners in later years. The country could also benefit from visitors' increased concerns about terrorism and crime in neighbouring Tanzania and Kenya.

Time will tell whether Mozambique rises to tourism's challenges – and soon, according to Quilalea's Marjolaine Hewletts. 'Not much will be untouched in 50 years,' she says. 'Most ruins on Ibo have been sold by the government for renovation. Everyone has their eye on Pemba. There are rumours of runways and golf courses. You won't recognise the place in five years' time.'

© Travel Africa Magazine 2004. This article may not be reproduced in any form without permission.