Mozambique Self-Drive

My earliest memories of Mozambique are of the crackling short wave radio signal that was LM radio. In my formative years at the time I could picture the beaches, the sun, the seafood and the hippies. This was my earliest impression of the country that is Mozambique. Then in 1975 LM radio fell silent and was replaced by the horrors of a civil war that raged for almost twenty years.

In the 1990’s the Mozambique people had had enough of war and the country turned to the road of recovery. Memories of brief flirtations with parts of the country are what I have today although my travels of the past were passed in the haze of youth and the doings of youth.

Recently my mind has turned back to Mozambique. With all the developments in the parks and wilderness areas there is a real buzz in the country. More and more visitors are streaming through the borders into Mozambique. New beach destinations are opening up and the game is returning to the reserves.

Investment in the road infrastructure has ensured that visitors can now travel further in a sedan car than in the past. Mozambique is no longer solely for 4x4 enthusiasts, although there are still more than enough 4x4 routes for the rough and tumble brigade.

The roads have been improved dramatically in the past few years. In fact it is quite possible to reach Vilanculos – 750 km north of Maputo – in a 2 wheel drive vehicle. The South African petroleum giant, Sasol, has invested a great deal in the road infrastructure of Mozambique allowing visitors to the country more options for their beach holidays.

The transition

Today Mozambique is in a transitional period where the glory days of the past appear to be returning in the peace and development that has engulfed this once war-torn country. Parks that once hosted some of Africa’s densest wildlife populations prior to the devastation of the civil war are being re-opened.

Mozambique’s national parks suffered a great deal from poaching and mismanagement during the civil war resulting in the scarcity of animals and structural damage to tourist facilities and the roads. There is a massive push by the authorities to rectify this and open the parks up for tourism again. Most of the parks in the south and central regions of the country are accessible in 4x4 vehicles – and some in two wheel drive.

Mozambique’s premier reserve, Gorongosa National Park, is now accessible in a two wheel drive vehicle – in season – and other routes that were almost impassable with a 4x4 are now accessible in a two wheel drive vehicle. There is, however, still enough rough terrain to suit even the most jaundiced rugged rough-rider.

Limpopo Trans-frontier Park

The zoning of the Limpopo Trans-frontier Park has opened up exciting new routes for the self drive and 4x4 enthusiasts. Incorporating South Africa’s iconic Kruger National Park and the Limpopo National Park in Mozambique the Trans-frontier park has become the ‘next big thing’ in southern African self drive.

Until a few years ago a holiday combining Kruger with the coast of Mozambique meant leaving Kruger at Crocodile Bridge then crossing into Mozambique through the Komatipoort border post and heading on to Maputo before deciding on whether to head south to Ponto do Ouro or north to Xai Xai and beyond.

Today two border posts allow for the crossing directly from the Kruger National Park into the Limpopo National Park before heading for the coast north of Maputo. Pafuri border post in the far north of the Kruger is a remnant of the past but has now been opened for tourist traffic. Giriyondo Border was built and opened in 2005.

Most people are under the impression that the Mozambique section of the trans-frontier park can only be accessed in a 4x4 vehicle and although this is advisable it is not set in stone. I have heard of intrepid travellers entering Mozambique through the Pafuri border post and heading on to the coast – in a Volkswagen beetle! Two-wheel drivers beware though – this must not be attempted during the rainy season from October through to May.

Border crossings

Besides the two border posts from Kruger there are a number of other check points where Mozambique can be accessed from. Three checkpoints in the south link southern Mozambique and the capital Maputo to South Africa. The main border from South Africa is at Komatipoort (Lebombo border on the SA side ; Ressano Garcia on the Mozambique side) and during peak holiday times the gates stay open 24 hours a day.

To get to the southern-most resort of Ponto do Ouro from South Africa the border at Kosi Bay will be the easiest. What must be taken into account is that Ponto is only accessible by 4x4 from any direction.